The road noise due to the lack of pavement almost drowned out the constant shutter clicks of B’s camera, as the van bounced along at a somewhat reasonable speed towards the airport, on the road to lalibela. There was nothing unusual when the driver’s phone rang and he answered in the local Amharic, one hand clutching the phone, the other barely making contact with the steering wheel. His reaction to the call, however, was a little alarming. After hanging up, he looked back at us, clutched the steering wheel tightly with both hands, and started racing the van down the road as if we were going to miss the flight.
Unable to take any more pictures due to the fact that the van ride had just been converted to what seemed like a roller coaster ride, B turned to me and exclaimed “isn’t he flying down the road a little too fast”. Sensing the concern on our faces after a few minutes, as even I put on my seat belt, he turned to us to explain that our plane was waiting on the tarmac for us, and we were (at normal speeds) still a good 30min from the airport.
“That’s not possible” we exclaimed in unison. After all both J and I have a penchant of getting to the airport way too early. Not ready to take any chances in Africa (after my previous experience in Tanzania of several breakdowns), we were heading to the airport a whole 3.5 hrs before our scheduled departure. In most countries, flights get delayed, or people get bumped to later flights. Here, you could get bumped to an earlier flight… welcome to Ethiopia !!
Lalibela is a town in the northern region of Ethiopia, famous for 11 monolithic rock-cut churches. Most people in this town are Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, a form of Christianity and predates modern Christianity. The town is located at a fairly high elevation of 8500 ft (2600m). Even so, it is fairly warm, and there are mosquitoes to battle at night.
A little history lesson: A 12th century king by the name of Lalibela decided to create his own Jerusalem here in Ethiopia following the capture of Jerusalem by the Muslims. So he commissioned these churches that were carved from within the earth. The unique thing about these churches versus other historical sites – they have been in continuous use for worship till today. The most famous of these is of course the Lalibela cross, or the Church of St. George.
However, I found some of the other churches in town far more fascinating. For example the biggest of them, Bete Medhane Alem in my personal view qualifies amongst the seven wonders. The sheer size of it makes you wonder how someone could have carved something so intricate out of rock working into the ground ! I also noticed swastikas in the carvings in the churches, and hence the Indian influence :-).
Being different from mainstream Christianity, they celebrate Christmas on January 7th. We were lucky to be there during lent when we got to participate in local worship ceremonies. For these ceremonies, they wear a white shawl over their clothes and sing while chanting, almost sounding like chants in a Hindu temple to my untrained ear.
Two flights daily from Adis Ababa in a tiny turboprop are your best bet. The hardest part was getting from the international terminal to the domestic terminal in Adis. Lets just say there are no shuttle buses, the terminal is under construction (as of 2017) and you have to walk out onto the road and drag your luggage a fair distance. The domestic terminal itself is a museum; an airport frozen in time from 1940s or earlier. Getting the visa at the airport was a breeze though. It cost $50.
I’m not much of a guide person, and believe in grabbing a book and discovering a place myself. However, this is one place where it helped to have a local guide. Be aware though that everyone in town pretends to be a guide; okay I like to exaggerate a little, so take that with a grain of salt, but in this case, it might be true. Lucky for us, Professor Rebecca, whose interests in human and ape evolution take her to Ethiopia very often, set up up with a very able guide named Fish.
I would recommend two restaurants: Ben Abeda for a spectacular sunset dinner and Seven Olives.
Food in Ethiopia consists of Injira for breakfast, injira for lunch and injira again for dinner. Every time we thought we would order something different, there would magically be a big loaded plate of injira on the table. Needless to say, I’m out-jira-ed for a while. Beer is cheap and readily available, and they have a local “honey-wine” that is a must try.
The three wheeler Bajaj auto rickshaw (or as most tourists call tuck-tuk) is the king of the road (okay, the use of the word “road” is a bit of a stretch, but you get the point). We hired one with a driver that fit all of us (4 people in total) and we took it off-roading on a mountain trail to get some scenic shots. Lets just say a Jeep or an FJ Cruiser might not have made it there !!
One thing that struck us from the beginning was that the town was full of kids. I mean not just many kids, but pretty much only kids… and lots of them. If you’ve ever watched “The moaning of Life” with Karl Pilkington, there is an episode about the sea gypsies that let the kids roam free to the point where the town seems to be run by them; I think I just discovered another similar town.
Do Not make the mistake of being nice to the kids. You talk to one, and pretty soon you resemble the pied piper of Lalibela. One morning, while still dark at 5 AM, J and I decided to step out to check out the church services. Along the way, we met a young worshipper heading that way. Assuming interacting that early with someone, that too a worshipper was perfectly safe, so I let my guard down. Lets just say every time I passed by that intersection, no matter what time of the day, Mogees was waiting for me yelling “Mark, Mark” ; in case you are wondering, that was what I had told him my name was. So I suppose he was just there to remind me what my name was.
What my Travel Buddies have to add:
J (aka Kurmudgeon Korean):
“Ethiopia made me feel like a kid again; it made me shit my pants”
“I’m not sure what I am coughing up here, but I believe I can fix your shoes with it”